Understanding pigments and colour theory…
… is a huge part of a semi permanent technicians life. It is impossible to create beautiful semi permanent make up which suits the clients colouring perfectly without having a well rounded understanding of the range of individual skin tones and how the pigments we implant will look once they are healed.
Humans have used colour to decorate their bodies since time began. In order to create vibrant colours, pigments were dug up from the earth in sand and rock or sourced from berries and even insects. These compounds were mixed with water to create paint. We still use these pigments in semi permanent make up today although you won’t find me grinding up charcoal to create a black eyeliner!
A good semi permanent make up technician will only use pigments from well known companies such as Precious Pigments, Golden Eye, Bio Touch and Amiea for example. These pigments are all organic, hypo-allergenic and derived from natural sources and it is worth checking with your technician where they have sourced their pigments from.
There are plenty of fake pigments on the market, especially for sale on eBay and if a technician has sourced their pigments from there, it is worth considering whether to go ahead with your treatment. No technician worth their salt will mind disclosing where their products come from if they are using a well known and respected brand.
It might not seem to matter if the technician has a beautiful colour that you want implanted, but when it causes a reaction in your skin, migrates beyond the area you originally wanted it implanted into or fails to hold properly, you will have wasted an awful lot of money on an unwanted result.
When it comes to deciding on a colour for your eyebrows, lips or eyeliner, your semi permanent make up technician should discuss your options fully. This is where colour theory comes in.
Conventional make up is applied onto the skin and covers the skin tone. Semi permanent make up is applied under the skin so the final result is a combination of pigment and skin tone.
So, if you particularly want a very red, blue based lip colour but you have a lot of natural cool tones in your skin, you may find your technician steers you towards a warmer, even orange based pigment mix which will avoid the final colour fading to blue.
You will generally find that during a consultation, your technician will spend a lot of time staring at your face. While this can be a bit uncomfortable, it is a very necessary part of the process to ensure the correct pigment mix is chosen. Your technician will be assessing lots of elements of your skin tone. They will consider the colour of your eyes and look for underlying colour tones, such as red or blues or yellows They may ask what colours you think suit you the best and what colour clothes are most prevalent in your wardrobe.
It is quite usual for a technician skilled in colour theory to mix a rather unusual colour into the final pigment choice. This can sometimes be a strong green or orange which might well look rather scary in the bottle, especially if you need existing semi permanent make up correcting. This is why it is important to research your technician thoroughly, trust is a huge part of the consultation process and you should be comfortable that your technician knows what they are doing.
It is always a great idea to take along your favourite pieces of make up to a semi permanent make up consultation. These favoured colours are usually most loved for a reason. They will have been complimented on the colour many times before and this is generally because they are the ‘right’ colours for the clients skin tone.
Whichever pigments are finally used, it will most likely be a custom blend, created especially for you.
This is why so much semi permanent make up is referred to as ‘bespoke’… because when it comes to semi permanent make up it really is not the case that one size fits all.